Venice through our eyes

We arrived in Venice around six in the evening, after having secured our hotel in Mestre, a twenty minute bus or train ride outside of Venice. It was one of the best moves we made; we not only enjoyed the walk into Venice from the train station, but thoroughly enjoyed not having to lug our luggage through the crowds. 

Arriving in Venice as the evening was beginning was absolutely magical. We strolled for an hour or so and decided to take the water bus down the canal to San Marco Square. Oops- what we thought would be a ten minute "express" ride turned out to be a thirty minute "tour" around the islands surrounding Venice (note to self- read the signs (don't know Italian) inquiringly motion to a local ;]).  Actually, the ride was fascinating with the boat full of locals returning to their homes.

Here we are now...

With each glance, you caught a gorgeous picture.

Amazing architecture, canals everywhere...

Perfect for a postcard, eh?

We returned the next day, refreshed and ready to go. One can't help but be amazed at how much the water and canals influence the lives of the Venetians. Water is everywhere, seeping into doors and buildings.

We headed over the the Palazzo Fortuny to visit the museum. The Fortuny collection was so exciting to see, but I had to exert much self control not to touch the fabrics. Seeing Mariano Fortuny's beautiful paintings was a delight. Not being able to take photos was a bummer, but I did pick up a wonderful book about Fortuny that I had not seen in the states.

We did sneak a few photos as we stepped outside on a third floor back veranda. If you look closely, you can see the canal in the next "block".

Here is a good example of the eroding condition of the buildings of Venice.

The Palazzo Fortuny's inner courtyard. The lower windows' roundels were lovely both indoors and out.

The Palazzo's exterior:

More neighborhood shots:

 The stucco colors are so vivid! 

Picture perfect, again!

Lots of spires and quatrefoils... and did I say water?

 

Toward the evening, the sun disappeared behind the clouds and it became windy and cold. Here, folks are beginning to scurry about to leave and take shelter.

Venice was just what you would expect... and more. I will return!

Next Sunday I'll show you around the Tuscan and Umbrian countryside.

Mariano Fortuny- Did you know he also painted?

When I think of Mariano Fortuny, lush velvets and delicate, pleated silks come to mind.  The “Delphos” dress is a classic. The “Fortuny lampshade” is also. The beautiful damask fabrics, the gorgeous clothes.  His mystique.  What I did not realize is that he was also a very gifted painter. And engraver. And stage and lighting set designer. Some of his inventions set new benchmarks in theater that are still followed today.


La Pedrera de Caixa Catalunya (the museum) in Barcelona, Spain is currently holding an exposition on Fortuny and his works: Fortuny, El mag de Venecia (Fortuny, The Magician of Venice).
Besides viewing his incredible fabrics, clothing and inventions, there are also presentations, discussions and a tactile tour of fabrics. I wish I was in Barcelona! I think they should bring this wonderful display to the USA!

Silk lampshades in Mariano Fortuny 1999 Marsilio Editori

Fortuny velvet

Mariano Fortuny (y Madrazo) was born in Grenada, Spain in 1871. After his painter father’s early death at age 36 of malaria in 1874, his mother moved her two young children to Paris, where Mariano was encouraged to study painting and etching under his uncle’s tuteledge. He was introduced to many of the artists at the time through his family and exposed to many styles of painting.   In 1889, his mother moved the family to Venice. Mariano spent time in both Venice and Paris, before finally settling in the Palazzo Orfei.  Today it is now called the Palazzo Fortuny, as it houses the museum dedicated to Fortuny and his works.

Here are some views of the Palazzo Fortuny:

Palazzo Fortuny exterior in Fortuny by Guillermo de Osma

Palazzo Fortuny exterior in Fortuny by Anne-Marie Deschodt

The Grand Salon in Fortuny by Anne-Marie Deschodt

Palazzo Fortuny in Fortuny by Guillermo de Osma

 

The library in Fortuny by Anne-Marie Deschodt

Fortuny's studio in Fortuny by Anne-Marie Deschodt

Fortuny worked in oils, gouache and tempera, creating his own color pigments. He favored copper plate etching, which, along with his painting, greatly influenced his later creations in silk and velvet. He learned the subtle use of color and the importance of light to achieve the dramatic effects seen in his textiles.

Here are  some of Fortuny’s paintings:

Una roccia a pareti verticali sulla riva del mare" 1948

Prove alla Scala di Milano

Ritratto di Henriette Fortuny in costume pompeiano, 1935

Here Fortuny painted his own Palazzo:

Interno dell'atelier del pittore a palazzo Pesaro-Orfei a Venezia

 

http://www.invertirenarte.es/mercadodearte/imagenes/Octubre%2027/duran_fortuny.jpg
Painted by Fortuny's father, Mariano Fortuny Y Marsal (1835 - 1874)

And last, but not least, my favorite:

Schizzo per la decorazione dell'atelier dell'artista a Venezia